Since arriving in Guatemala and travelling down through Central America to Paraguay, we have caught quite a few bus rides. And we have learned a lot about people along the way.
Like many South American countries, Paraguay’s bus system is extensive and, at times chaotic; however, it does what it is designed to do. Day after day, it moves many people across the country. This is what’s in store when you catch a bus in Paraguay!
What You Get for a Buck Eighty
We are commuting by bus from our Caacupe base to Asuncion regularly as we are still without a car. The fare is 8000 Guarani per person (NZD $1.80). The bus is often full and sometimes noisy. We usually score a seat on the way to Asuncion; however, the way back is hit-and-miss. The air conditioning is provided by way of open windows and depending on the mood and skill of the driver, the ride ranges from ok to ‘hold on tight’.
In addition to the designated bus stops, commuters can hail the bus from just about anywhere. This makes it very convenient for catching a bus but also results in a lot of stopping and starting.
Catch a Bus, Watch & Learn
We tend to become ‘people watchers’ on our bus rides because there’s not much more to be done. You can learn a lot about society by watching people in challenging situations. Suffice it to say, riding in a cramped bus in one part of the world will generally be an entirely different experience to doing so in another country.
We have generally loved interacting with all the communities in the countries we have traveled through, from Guatemala to Paraguay. They have all had a different way of going about their business. Strangely it feels like a privilege to be part of the collective grind. Everyone is in the same position, needing to get somewhere. There are no first-class seats or preferential treatment, just humans needing to get things done.
We love the Paraguayan way. They have a way of making difficult situations bearable, often pleasant, at times even joyous.
A Bus Ride Becomes a Shopping Opportunity
Another feature of riding a Paraguay bus is the parade of hawkers offering their wares. They can get on and off the bus without having to pay. They proceed to deliver their well-rehearsed ‘calls to action’ as they offer everything from herbal remedies to bananas. If you are lucky they will also tell you a little about their families, and occasionally produce family photo’s. Despite the bus being crammed they manage to walk their way down the aisle and get off at the next stop. They usually make a few sales, regardless of what they are selling.
In-house Entertainment
Like hawkers, buskers have free access. On they hop with their instruments and ghetto blasters. One stop a rapper, the next a mariachi band. And no matter what the style, standard or volume, they all get an applause and a few Guarani for their troubles.
Everybody gets along as They Go Along
We recently traveled back on a late afternoon, it was standing room only. We had already had a long day in Asuncion. Paraguayans are not loud people, but they do like to celebrate…hey, they’re partly Latino!.
The bus was a mixed bag of tradesmen, laborers, mothers and children and older folk. There was a gaggle of men in the back of the bus who sounded as though they had stopped off for a few mojitos before boarding. These guys were having fun. We couldn’t make out what the joke was but they were intermittently calling something out. Rather than being offended, the entire bus was in on the joke. We laughed along also, and to this day we have no idea what was so funny. But everyone was having a grand time.
As the odd passenger got off the bus and left an empty seat we noticed that rather than standing passengers clamoring to take the seat they would look around to see who needed that seat. I was even tapped on the shoulder by a mature-aged chap, who offered a seat that had become empty. It’s like traveling with friends.
The Future of Catching a Bus in Paraguay
Paraguay is doing well. The main roads are generally in reasonable condition and there’s moves toward going electric. Personally, we hope they take their time with progress because we like it just the way it is.
You can read more about Paraguay buses on our friend Simon’s post on his great blog Simons Paraguay. It’s an interesting read and goes into detail about how the Paraguay bus network operates.
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