When we were living in Granada and passed a certain bus stop we would regularly hear the bus drivers calling, Rivas, Rivas, Rivas. It was as though they were expecting everyone to be looking for the Rivas bus, and with good reason. Although Rivas is the central point, from there most visitors head to the beach. San Juan Del Sur, Playa Gigante and all the amazing beaches that stretch along the stunning coastline.
If you are in the region we suggest you check out the town of Rivas itself. We’ve heard some mixed reviews about Rivas township however we had a great time there.
Geared up for Tourists
Compared to other parts of Nicaragua it’s fair to say beach area in the Rivas region is beautiful but it’s a bit more expensive….but hey paradise comes at a cost!
Getting There
As the Rivas area is geared up for tourists it has a strong network of travel options. Private shuttles & rides are easily found on FB & Whatsapp expat & travel/backpacking groups. As far as public transport goes check Centrocoasting for bus departure locations & information to the Rivas area.
Beaches, Beaches and More Beaches
Surf, great swimming, fishing, Rivas has a beach to suit everyone and it’s what most people come to the area for. Beachsearcher.com lists 29 beaches in Rivas and it’s an awesome resource.
A word of warning – be cautious, even beaches that are listed as ‘safe swimming’ can get pretty wild. The waves can be serious ‘dumpers’ and the undertow can be pretty strong even in the shallow water. Also during certain times of the year you will see stingrays.
San Juan Del Sur
The place where most expats seem to head, San Juan del Sur, is renowned as the ‘party town’. If that’s your thing then here’s your place. It’s home to lot’s of expat Canadians, who love the beach lifestyle and surfing. It also provides the largest expat environment for families in Nicaragua with English speaking schools, home schooling groups and lot’s of activities for kids & families. It’s the best of both worlds for many people, the cruisy beach vibe and a large, friendly expat community.
If you are planning on moving to San Juan del Sur, check out our guest post from Nic. They are Kiwi expats who live there Living the Good Life in San Juan del Sur.
Where We Ate
Dale Pues
This is a cool, tucked away spot that is popular with expats & digital nomads. Great service and excellent food. Perfect place to park up for a few drinks. We went there a few times and it was fab each time. Dale Pues
Ikal
We went here a couple of times as well. Their Cobb Salad is huge and absolutely delicious. Great service and right in town. Ikal
Where We Stayed
Tapihouse – SJDS
This is an awesome place to stay in San Juan del Sur. Not too close to the party bars but still in a convenient location. Rafa is fantastic, the staff are friendly and the breakfast is excellent. 10/10 from us! Tapihouse
From Playa Marsella to Heaven – Playa Marsella
Playa Marsella is a gorgeous beach just north of San Juan del Sur. This well equipped casita is in the Bosques del Mar gated community. It’s only a 5 min walk through the trees to the beach. Further along the beach there is a great cafe & bar. We were very comfortable here and it was a quiet and relaxing spot. Ramon’s Place
Playa Gigante – a Chilled Beach Town
We stayed in Playa Gigante for a month and enjoyed eating out, swimming and strolling along the beach every day. Gigante is a sleepy fishing village, 59km north of San Juan del Sur. It has an excellent paved road all the way from Rivas, it’s definitely a relaxed and picturesque area. The village itself is directly on the beach.
Where We Ate
El Pozo Bar & Restaurant
These guys make a seriously good pizza that you can also have delivered. We ate here numerous times and were never disappointed. They have a wood fired pizza oven and the pizza’s have a delicious crispy crust. Relaxing place to hang out and and just about on the beach. El Pozo Bar & Restaurant
Juntos Beach Bar
Juntos is owned by Canadian expats and has a primo spot right on the beach. They have a newly added 2nd floor Palapa which provides stunning views over Playa Gigante. They have great coffee, happy hours, weekly specials and also live music.
Giants Foot Surf Camp
Giant’s Foot is a surf camp on beachfront at the south end of Playa Gigante. They are also owned by Canadian expats and provide an all inclusive (food, surfing & accommodation) option. On a Monday night they throw open the doors for a burger night and everyone is welcome from locals to tourists. It’s a great spot to watch the sunset with a drink, burger & fries.
Fresh Fish
Chat to any of the local fisherman and they will happily sell you some of their catch. You will laugh when you see them driving their boats on to the beach after a fishing trip.
Where We Stayed
Dales Cool Places
Dales Cool Places is the original beach front accommodation in Playa Gigante. Our casita was about 10 steps to the beach! It was well set up and comfortable. There is also a great tienda (shop) onsite that sells groceries, drinks and pretty much everything you would need.
Casa Amigos
We stayed at Casa Amigos for a month. It’s in a great relaxing spot a short stroll along the main road to the beach/village. It has an amazing upstairs living/kitchen area with a great view and a glimpse of the water. Howler monkeys hang out in the trees nearby and we also spotted a big lizard living in the tree root right outside our door. Just go prepared for the insects at night as there is no netting on the upper level.
Magnific Rock
Epic surf and incredible views. There’s a cafe , yoga retreat and accomodation perched between Playa Popoyo and Beginner Bay. 71 km from SJDS, worth the trip just for the views. You can also stay at Magnific Rock and wake up to the amazing view.
Rancho Santana
We had lunch at this stunning slice of paradise. Enjoying delicious wine & food, amazing service, looking out over the ocean, watching the surfers line up to catch a wave. This place is a must see! Rancho Santana
We had heard a lot about SJDS before went we there (good & bad) but there is so much more to the region beyond the ‘SJDS party town’ image . Ideally spend some time in the region and check out all the amazing beaches, cafes and places to stay beyond SJDS as well – it’s very unique.
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